A ~ C ~ S~N~A~K~E~S

Snake Breeders Based in Leicestershire, England, UK      


 Coelognathus radiatus

Rough Guide Timetable

Pairs can be introduced at any time of year, in our experience, mating is usually initiated quite quickly.

After successful mating it is normally around 1 month until the female completes a pre-lay slough (If the majority of the clutch is Infertile, it will normally be laid at this time and will be followed approximately 1-2 weeks later with either a small number of fertile eggs or a post-lay slough).

A gravid radiated ratsnake will normally continue to eat throughout although it is advisable to reduce the size of her food until after laying.

From pre-lay slough to egg laying is approximately 10-14 days. In our experience, if a fertile clutch is laid at this time it will not be followed by a post lay slough.

Incubation time is approx 2 months. Eggs normally started to dimple and dent approximately one week before hatching.

If the female is laying multiple fertile clutches, depending on your incubation temperature, hatching will occur at approximately the same time as the next clutch is being laid.

Brumation No Brumation required
Incubation Temperature27C (80F) to 29C (85F)
Expected Number of Eggs6 to 15 per clutch is usual however you should expect multiple clutches
Incubation Days Normally 65 days at around 28-28.5C (82-84F) but could be as long as 95 days if this temperature cannot be constantly maintained.
Incubation methodSee our Guide to Incubating Snake Eggs.
Caring for the Female

Gravid Radiated Ratsnakes normally have a massive appetite and whilst we have never experienced any problems with feeding whilst gravid we would recommend offering smaller food items whilst your female is gravid.

Immediately after removing the eggs we place the female in a tub of fresh luke warm water to clean the substrate, particularly from her eyes and mouth and also to give her the chance for a much needed drink. At this time offer her a single food item of normal size but care should be taken as your female will be desperate for food and accidental bites are not uncommon.

A few days later we begin feeding extremely heavily, as much as twice the amount, twice as often for the first month is quite usual.


Radiated Ratsnake eggs are extremely tough and leathery which can cause some hatchlings to die in the egg after breaking the egg tooth and being unable to slit the egg themselves. We have found on average this occurs in about one third of our hatchlings although we have had clutches that have been 100% successful and others that have been 100% unsuccessful.

The solution to this would be to manually pip/slit the eggs yourself which we would normally only do after the first hatchling has pipped on its own. If you decide to manually pip the eggs yourself you should know that hatchlings that have been manually pipped are often smaller and certainly not a strong as those that have pipped on their own. Hatchlings that have pipped the egg themselves usually have a better initial feeding response.

If you require assistance with manually pipping eggs please do not hesitate to email us for advice.

Hatchlings Hatchlings will require a slightly higher humidity than adults initially to assist with their first shed which should occur approximately one week after hatching. In our experience, radiated ratsnake hatchlings do not normally present too much difficulty in taking their first meal.
Recommended links

www. ratsnakefoundation.org

Our Photo Album

An account of breeding 2 of our radiatedratsnakes, Female T+ Albino named Ishtar and Male T- Albino named Ivan .

Ishtar has previously had a really tough time with breeding. Her first AND second season merged together when she laid nothing but infertile eggs which she scattered all over the place every month or two, including through the winter. All this from only ONE mating. It was a really tough time for all of us, at times we thought we would lose her because she was so thin, burning off all that energy. Luckily she eats anything you put in front of her so we were able to feed her every couple of days just to keep her going.

In the end (against normal practice for this species) we decided to cool her for a short time and thankfully it worked by stopping the breeding cycle. We rested her for a year and then paired her up again quite early in 2009. Relief came when she did a pre-lay shed, as her infertile eggs were always scattered around usually either just before or during a shed. Another thing to note here is she is generally quite calm for the species but after a good pre-lay shed she will puff up and be incredibly bad tempered!! She went on to produce 3 clutches in 2009 with the first and last ones being good fertile clutches. The hatchlings (all wild type) were very large and healthy, ate well and their temperament was surprisingly calm.

Towards the end of 2009 we paired them up again and as usual he got straight to business so we decided not to introduce him again.

Unfortunately only a month later she started scattering infertile eggs again. We did not want to repeat what had happened previously and thought that maybe allowing only one mating was a mistake, so we introduced him again and as usual he did not disappoint but this time we left them together for a good few days and then again the following week.

A month later she did a pre-lay shed with a really bad temper and that was subsequently followed by 13 perfect eggs. In 2010 she laid a total of 3 good clutches and all 31 eggs were fertile, with 28 of them hatching successfully.

Ishtar always lays good clutches in a clump and infertile clutches are scattered.

In 2011 we bred our Female T+ Albino named Ishtar to one of her sons, Wild Type het T+ and T- named Izak and produced both Wild Type het T+ Albino and T+ Albinos all of which would be 50% possible het T- Albino. Some of the Wild Types displayed more yellow colouration than we had seen previously which could be an indication that the het T- Albino has a "dulling" effect on the colouration.

We also put Male T- Albino named Ivan to one of his daughters, Wild Type het T+ and T- Albino named India in 2011 and produced both Wild Type het T- Albino and T- Albinos all of which would be 50% possible het T+ Albino. There were no signs of any brighter wild types as in the other pairing.

This breeding information guide has been written by us at AC Snakes for your information and guidance.
It will be updated and expanded as regularly as we are able, however it should not be used as your only source of care information.
Prior to purchasing or breeding any animal it is strongly recommended that you research extensively to ensure that you can provide the correct care for your pet and any resulting offspring.
Last updated April 2012

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